We're waiting for the bus outside the tourist office in Frómista, which was an oasis of heavenly luxury amidst the harsh meseta backdrop. By heavenly, I mean the ricotta herb tortellini at the Italian restaurant and a historic Romanesque church glowing golden in the late afternoon light. By luxury, I mean a pharmacy, two grocery stores, and multiple ATMs.
I'm a little sad to be leaving the meseta, actually. The proud, lonely dirt road through endless wheatfields is the closest to what I imagined the Camino would be like. Out there, with your friends and your pack and your self, you get contemplative -- and yet it's as if the ache in your soul has quieted and you no longer need to grasp for words, only to feel the sunlight on your face.
Still, the Camino has proven protean in its manifestations these couple weeks, so much what I expected and so very surprising. The Camino gives you what you need, which for me that seems to be learning what I want. And right now, what I
I want more than anything are the cobblestones and tall modern buildings and, yes, shopping malls of León!
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