Rabanal del Camino is a quiet town of reddish stone buildings. Our albergue had a flowery courtyard, excellent sinks for scrubbing laundry (critical when hand-washing), polished slate floors, and huge skylights. There was a slight breeze; children laughed and scampered around the streets; we ate the best pasta and ham and fried eggs in the world; some people went to hear Gregorian chanting in the monastery; the friends we'be been making from Hungary and New York and England and Luxembourg gathered in the courtyard, talking until late in the night, and we joined in or drifted off to sleep to the music of their voices.
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